Above the fjords: a day on the Lofoten ridges

We left the red cabins at seven. The fishing boats were already out and the water in the harbour was so still that the mountains stood upside down in it. Eight walkers, one guide, and a forecast that promised the best day of the week.

The climb

The path starts gently through birch woods, then turns uphill hard. Lofoten mountains do not bother with foothills. Within an hour we were above the trees on bare granite, warm under our hands, with the sea opening up behind us in shades of green and blue that look painted.

The ridge

The ridge itself is the reason people come back. It is never difficult, but it is airy, with the fjord a long way down on both sides. We walked it slowly, stopping often. A pair of sea eagles followed us for a while, riding the air that rose up the cliffs.

• Distance: 12 kilometres
• Climb: 940 metres
• Time: 7 hours with long stops

Lunch on top

On the summit we ate brown cheese sandwiches and waffles, and nobody said very much. You could see every island down the chain, and the white beaches where we would walk two days later.

Down to the sea

We came down a different valley, to a beach where the water was cold enough to make you shout. Three people swam anyway. Back at the cabins, the boats were coming home and the light was still golden at nine in the evening. In June it never really gets dark here, which is just as well, because nobody wanted the day to end.